Viewing a thread - Can I weld the yoke back on a hydraulic cylinder??

Can it be done? Yes.

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How?

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Extend or pull the shaft as far out of the cylinder barrel as possible. You then need to tapper the end of the cylinder shaft, and also, if there is enough sticking out the back of the yoke, tapper that also. Line it up, and then tack it togehter. Before you actually start welding it, take a towel and soak it in water, and wrap this around the exposed shaft. Sort of a poor mans heat sink to try and keep the heat from getting back far enough to cause damage to the cylinder seals. If there is not enough shaft out the back side of the yoke to tapper and get a good weld on, you may need to also sacrifice the yoke, by letting your weld run up onto it. Remember to keep rotating sides as you weld, to try and keep it true, building out in over lapping weld beads. If you weld all on one side, you are going to pull the piece out of alignment. Across the pin line is the most important, as rotation of the pin will allow for forgiveness on the other axis.

Sometimes these types of repairs will run forever, and other times, well, not so long.

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Edited by ChrisTN 5/13/ 09:18

A friend of mine gave me a box full of tooling. These include many, many end mills of different shapes and sizes, t-slot cutters, reamers, broaches, expandable reamers, etc, etc, etc. These are worth a fortune and to top it all, most have never been used!

In return, however, he asked me to try and fix his M/Benz Vito's driving shaft. One of the universals seized and these prop shafts are not made to be repaired. There are no cir-clips on the yokes to retain the universals. Instead, they are punched, after the universal is installed. So, basically, you throw it away and buy a new one, or you can cut the existing yoke off and weld on a replacement.
Both the above options are ridiculously expensive, especially buying a complete new prop shaft.

He found a universal that has the same length, but the end caps are slightly larger in diameter than the original. My job is to attempt to machine the yokes out by 1.5mm to be able to accommodate the larger diameter universal bearing, but this doesn't look to be that easy.

Doing only one wouldn't be too much of a problem, but my common sense tells me that the two holes need to be perfectly lined up and then machined precisely and at the same time. Doing one at a time might, or rather will probably result in the two holes being slightly off center from each other, which would wreck the yoke.

Is this possible, or is the way to go to buy a replacement yoke and weld it on? How do I mount the yoke and how do I indicate both holes. I do have a center finder, but not a DRO.
Should I end up getting the yoke mounted, which tool and method would be best to machine with? A boring head or should I try to mount it in a large drill and drill it out to size.

I'm looking forward to any opinions and advice. If I read this correctly you can't find cups that fit the yoke, and need to open up the yoke?
No DRO, but dro's were not invented yet in my day. Invest in a coax indicator . The big
deal is set up and clamping. Next why the coax is good you indicate the top now & get the
bottom, when the top and bottom is -0- clamp it. Have to have a boring bar long enough.
Thing is light cuts or you get into flexing. I forgot after clamping mark the bore with
sharpie and run the boring head around looking for an even scratch and on the bottom
too. I just did a F700 Ford front spindle that way. Does this help "if I'm on track"
sam : Before you bore out the yokes, make sure you have a way to retain the cups in the yokes at the correct radial dimensions. If I was doing the job, I would take it to the local driveline shop and ask them for their opinion on how to proceed. You might be able to fit a inch dimension u-joint in there after machining the yokes to fit with less modifications. They have no doubt dealt with your issue before, or ones much like it, and if they can do the work for less than the cost of a new driveline, they will have a customer. So, they might be able to help you and tell you what is the best way to approach the problem. They deal with problems like that every day. Sometimes the enthusiast forums on the internet are also a good source of information, after filtering out the Bozo advice...

Edit: I just noticed you are in South Africa. That might change things a bit, but the concept is still worth pursuing. Just a suggestion, but if you have never built a drive shaft then this might not be the one to learn on. The yoke needs to be centered on the shaft when welded and then rebalanced. And if you are out slightly with centering new u joints in the yoke onec you removed the 1.5mm...its possible the joint could be off centered and possibly bind. If it were me, I would bring it to a driveshaft shop and have them repair it, they can remove the u-joints that are staked into place and install new joints. My Honda Element has the same set up and I also need to replace the joints.
Just a thought