Hawaiian Shirts - the History, Heritage and Lore

Warm breezes and stunning sandy shores, alongside the shimmering blue waters of the Pacific, serve as a backdrop for one of Hawaii's most treasured garments—the Hawaiian shirt, often called the "Aloha shirt." The story of the Aloha shirt is interwoven with the rich culture and heritage of Hawaii, showcasing its profound roots.

The allure of Hawaiian shirts goes beyond fashion; they are a representation of Hawaii's vibrant history. As early as the 20th century, with a blend of cultures resulting from immigration, Hawaii saw the emergence of unique clothing styles that eventually birthed the Hawaiian shirt. Immigrants brought with them different fabrics and styles: Japanese Kimono fabric, Barong shirts from the Philippines, formal silk from China, and collared shirts from the United States infused Hawaiian traditional patterns with their colors and designs, culminating in what we now recognize as the Aloha shirt.

In those early days, plantation-era Hawaii featured workers clad in short-sleeved shirts with striking geometric designs known as Palaka shirts. Influenced by their heritage, these workers often donned shirts made from leftover Kimono fabric. However, it was in the 1930s that the Aloha shirt truly began its ascension. Purple-haired college graduate Ellery Chun returned to Hawaii, post-education, to join his father’s dry goods store. In the midst of the Great Depression, Chun took the helm, rebranding the establishment as King-Smith Clothiers, where he began crafting vibrant print shirts from Kimono remnants.

Chun's ingenuity led him to trademark the term "Aloha shirt" in 1936, coining the phrase in an advertisement published in the Honolulu Advertiser. His display of these colorful garments caught the public eye and turned the shirt into a fashion phenomenon. Concurrently, other businesses such as Musashiya also began producing Hawaiian shirts from Kimono fabrics, introducing a variety of prints adorned with palm trees, hula dancers, pineapples, and other tropical motifs.

With a growing appetite for these vibrant designs, local residents, beach boys, surfers, and visitors eagerly embraced the Hawaiian Aloha shirt. Chun's marketing involvement with local media, including sponsoring a talent show, only added to the shirt’s rising popularity. Unique patterns crafted by his sister, Ethel, further defined the aesthetic of Hawaiian shirts, creating a distinct identity that separated them from Asian attire.

The post-World War II era saw a massive surge in demand for Hawaiian shirts, driven primarily by tourists arriving on cruise ships. This period cemented the Hawaiian Aloha shirt's status as a Hollywood staple, worn by icons like Elvis Presley and John Wayne. Major garment manufacturers, such as Kamehameha Garment Company, recognized the potential of these shirts, shipping large quantities to the continental United States.

While early Aloha shirts showcased rich imagery and intricate designs, by the mid-20th century, lesser-quality replicas began flooding the market. Despite this, the essence of the original Aloha—and the craftsmanship behind it—has been preserved by manufacturers committed to the art of Hawaiian shirt making.

Over the decades, countless designs have contributed to the allure of the Hawaiian Aloha shirt, turning many original labels into coveted collector’s items, valued in the thousands. Although Ellery Chun eventually closed his store, the legacy of the Aloha shirt continues strong. Musashiya and Surfriders Sportswear remain operational in Honolulu, ensuring that the Hawaiian Aloha shirt endures as a cherished symbol of the islands.

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